Полное руководство по настройке автомобиля!

GHub Platform · Гайд · 0 ответов · 13 просмотров

Greetings fellow rallyist! This guide is the best way to start your carreer as a proffesional car tuner...! Or not really, because all it will do is assist you with the in-game setups to get the most out of your car, whether that is a FWD machine, or an all out 4WD beauty. This guide is complementary to the in-game descriptions on what each car part does when altered, although I am sure you'll be fine even if you stick to this guide only. Also keep in mind that Dirt 4's tuning is unique in a way that the extent to which you can adjust your car's setup solely depends on your chief engineer's tuning skill. At first it can be frustrating since you won't be able to go into detail when changing certain things so hiring a better Chief Engineer is always adviseable (Main Menu>My Team > Staff >Chief Engineer) Lastly, a necessary part of tuning is testing. Don't make massive changes before testing so that you can easily spot a flaw in a setup! And remember to also test in actual counties, not just the DirtFish rally school which happens to have very different grip levels. I hope you find my guide useful as I spent a considerate amount of time and effort making it and remember, practice makes perfect so don't stick to just theoretical knowledge! Go out there and mess around with the settings yourself! DISCLAIMER This is not a guide on how to get oversteer and reduce throttle understeer to a bare minimum, a topic heavily discussed these days with the supposedly "flawed" Dirt 4 physics. If you're here just for this, I suggest you take a look at the "Differentials" section, particularly the Central Diff. An important thing to understand before reading the rest of this guide is the grip of each wheel. Due to forces like friction, each car wheel has a specific amount of grip. This is not measureable in any metric way. Grip is affected by many various factors like the surface (ice has less grip while tarmac more), the tyre ( tarmac tyres on gravel have less grip than gravel tyres on gravel , the weight they support and many more. There are two main types of grip you will need for this guide; Straight line grip, which is the grip of your car while moving in a straight line and cornering grip, which is the grip of your car during a corner or while the front wheels are turned. Speaking in lamest, least scientific terms, the grip of each wheel is allocated to different functions in order for the car to obey the driver's instructions. The rear wheels of a Rear Wheel Drive (RWD) car for example, must usually do two things: Get the car to move (when on throttle) and also prevent the car from sliding. The grip in this case would be allocated between pushing the car forward and preventing it from sliding. If the grip were to "run out", the car would slide (which is also the reason RWD cars oversteer when you step on the throttle, at least in other games. This is currently broken in Dirt 4) An important thing to remember is that, when front wheels lose grip, the car understeers because it doesn't have "enough" grip to turn. When the rear wheels lose grip, the car oversteers because there is nothing to keep the rear-end of the car from sliding. Again this was in the least scientific terms possible. Most cars if not all cars, both in Dirt 4 and real life, come with four brakes, one on each wheel. When tuning, the brakes are usually categorized in Front Brakes and Rear Brakes. The brake bias determines how the brake power is split between the Front and Rear brakes. Front biased brakes result in the front brakes having more power than the rear. To measure brake bias, Dirt 4 uses a percentage. 100% corresponds to front biased brakes while 0% to rear biased brakes. Front biased brakes typically result in understeer when turning simply because the front wheels have to work harder since they now have to both turn and slow the car down. When the bias is towards the rear, it gets a bit more complicated. Obviously the rear wheels, just like their front counterparts, struggle more when braking since they must prevent the rear from sliding and also slow the car down. As a result this often leads to oversteer since the rear wheels will lose grip. But the intensity of this is much larger compared to the understeer in the front, simply because the front wheels get some bonus grip when braking due to the car weight moving forward (think inertia forces) whereas the rear wheels lose grip when braking since most of the weight is now towards the front. This also means front biased brakes are often more effective. The strength of the brake input depends on how much you depress the brake pedal (if playing on a wheel) and also the Brake Strength setting of your car. This is pretty straight forward even from the in-game description. The more brake power there is, the quicker your car will slow down, however if a wheel locks up (usually the result of too little tyre grip compared to the strength of your brake), you will not slow down as fast. The brake strength can also intensify the effects of Rear and Front biased brakes respectively (Understeer/Oversteer) In-game use Like mentioned above, Dirt 4 uses a percentage where 100% = front biased and 0% = rear biased. You can tweak that via a slider and the available range is usually between 50% and 90% (some cars have 52 - 90 etc.) As far as I'm concerned, this means you can't get rear biased brakes, the best you can get is a perfect balance between the two (50%). So just because the slider is perfectly centered in-game, it doesn't mean your brake bias is split perfectly between the two wheels. That is why, compared to previous games like Dirt Rally, it's better not to use the slider as a visual indication of the setup but instead use the values next to it. Generally speaking, people who like to use their brakes in order to induce oversteer during a corner should move the bias to the back, while users who like powersliding should probably keep it towards the front so that they can brake faster before a corner. [size=2] Extreme amounts should not be applied as this results in poor braking and wheel lock up. Even if you are an oversteer freak, moving the bias fully to the rear guarantees nothing but trouble. TL;DR Front brake bias = Understeer when braking Rear brake bias = Oversteer when braking Gear ratios and the gearbox function in general is something quite complicated for the average person. Simply put, gears exist because your average engine can run up to 8 or even 9000RPM, so connecting the engine directly with the wheels would be a wheelspin mess, not to mention you'd stall the engine every time the car stopped. So gears reduce the RPM of the engine to an RPM the wheels can actually effectively use. The amount at which they reduce it is the ratio. (Not exactly sure on this, anyone feel free to correct me) Long gear ratios improve top speed but worsen acceleration. Short gear rations improve acceleration but reduce top speed. The easiest thing to do if you want your car to either be faster at top speed, or accelerate quicker, is change the Final Drive ratio. But that is not particularly efficient, especially when you're only having trouble on straights or on corners but not both . In-game use: Remember, changing 1 gear means you'll most likely need to make adjustments to the lower and higher gears. If you don't follow this rule, your car will most likely end up being unpredictable (see below). In-game we are provided with a visual depiction of the gear ratios that can help you with balancing all the gears. You have probably seen this before since it is a very popular way of visually inspecting the gear ratios of a vehicle and it is used in many games. Here is a screenshot of the in-game graph: This is a depiction of the default ratios for the Hyundai R5. The diagonal lines represent the gears, with the first diagonal line from left to right being 1st gear (which is orange because I had it sleecte